Early tests in Jesmonite from our empathetic prosthetics designer Kris Walsh @krisewalsh in response to conversations with Sarah who she was paired with for the Shoes Have Names project.
We look forward to unveiling the final piece at the Shoes Have Names exhibition. This piece and the work of nine other artists/designers will be on display later this month at Boutique by Shelter in King’s Cross as part of the official London Craft Week program 2020.
As this project moves along and the release date is creeping up, I wanted to take this time to reflect a bit on this experience. Looking back through my photos, I found this picture of me lasting the final shoe which represents Chantelle’s story. This picture was taken at the workshops of London College of Fashion right before I flew home to Canada. Though I miss the buzz of the sanding machines, the plethora of creativity, and the after hours phone calls with Chantelle discussing our designs; I was looking forward to was going home to Canada. Even though I completed the shoe for the original launch date before lockdown, I have been thinking about the importance of the home throughout the whole summer.
Home is a place of comfort, where the air doesn’t smell foreign and where everything is always exactly where you left it. It’s a place of warmth even when the AC is blasting on the hottest days, or when the frigid winter freezes the pipes. In these past few months when the home has been the epicenter of our lives, I think about Chantelle’s experiences facing homelessness and eviction, I think about the fear she faced and the coldness of the unknown. I reflect upon the warmth Shelter brought her and the comfort a home brings. Just like a blanket, the home wraps us in security and warmth. The Chantelle shoe I created for this exhibit is made from buttery soft leather and wraps around the foot like a blanket; securing it and keeping it warm. Each part of the shoe is significant and tells Chantelle’s story. As the world continues to open, we must not forget the importance of a home and all the physical and emotional warmth it brings us.
Dan
I’m pleased to say our fourth addition to the exhibition arrived last week from Tabitha Ringwood. As is my privilege, I’ve had a sneak peak. It’s incredible what Tabitha has created from her recycled sofa. Take a look at her previous blog posts if you are not aware of the source material!
By next week we should have all the exhibits and we’ll be whizzing them off for a photoshoot as the final preparations for the show begin.
Many thanks to Tabitha for spending the many hours it’s undoubtedly taken to create these wonderful shoes. I’m looking forward to reading her thoughts on the project and how the shoes reflect Kimberley’s story.
Richard
After a quiet few months on the project, things have really started to kick into gear with planning. We have confirmed our show will be live at the rearranged London Craft Week, plus all our amazing designers will have their projects finished by the end of this month.
The show will be open from Weds Sept 30 to Weds Oct 7.
In fact, I was lucky enough to receive finished shoes from Caroline Groves this afternoon. I've had a sneak peak and they are fantastic. I'm really looking forward to hearing the story and inspiration behind the concept.
Unfortunately, no sneak peaks for you. It will be worth the wait though!
Thank you to Caroline and all the other amazing designers taking in part in the project.
Richard
Here is a great update from Tabitha taking fully recycled secondhand leather sofa parts to form new material for the Shoes Have Names shoe.
Tabitha says: “Sofa’s play an important role in the comfort of the home and will add a luxury upcycled finish to the final shoe - which talks about positive sustainable futures.”
Here she shares concept drawings and some pictures of the shoe in development. You can read her previous project blogs here.
The concept drawings
Bringing my concept to life - thanks sofa!
We are very excited to have Dr Ellen Sampson @the_afterlives_of_clothes as one of the 10 Shoes Have Names Designers! Here is a peak some of her past beautiful ‘Cyanotypes’ Ellen has a PhD from Royal College of Art, London and was 2018-19 Polaire Weismann Fellow at The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York @themuseumofmodernart
She is currently Professorial Fellow in Fashion at University of the Creative Arts. @unioftheartslondon Ellen's solo exhibition Emotional Objects is currently touring in various venues across the United States.
Ellen will be make a special shoe related Cyanotype for our London Craft Week exhibition
Cyanotypes are created using a photographic printing process that produces a cyan-blue print. Engineers used the process well into the 20th century as a simple and low-cost process to produce copies of drawings, referred to as blueprints. The process uses two chemicals: ferric ammonium citrate and potassium ferricyanide. Here we see some of Ellen’s latest work.
I am an enthusiast for objects with a story; obsessed by the history of things and the journeys that they have lived. An element of this infatuation is encompassed within the markings that the material has gained, how it has worn or weathered over time, as well as how the object can be taken apart and re-assembled, re-formed or reshaped to fulfil its next purpose.
As part of my practice, I make my shoes using reclaimed leathers: material off-cuts and scraps from commissions or collaborative projects. I often take apart irreparable shoes and reuse their components too. The materials I will be using for this project come from an upcycled sofa that my husband and I had to sadly throw out. In order to utilise these individual components, of which there is an abundance, we broke the sofa down and took it completely apart. I kept all of the materials, in the hope that there would an ideal moment to draw upon them, so that nothing went to waste - this project felt like the perfect opportunity to finally commit to using them.
Our sofa, like they so often are for so many families, is an integral part of home. The sofa often becomes the place where we relax, come together, laugh, talk, catch up, cuddle, interact, play, lose half of your belongings or loose change! The surface of the leather from this sofa embodies the wear of its previous users; worn, stretched and shaped over time by lounging bodies and comfy bottoms! Scratches from watches or phones or metal buttons from jeans mark its surface. This sofa was given to us second hand so already embodies two different chapters within its lifespan so far and I am excited to start its next.
I love the differing tactile responses the components that we removed can create - the softness of the exposed inside foam is fun and enticing, the hard and curved nature of the springs is strong and purposeful, the worn leather is adaptable and curious, the structure of the wooden base foundation is solid and sturdy. Its design reflects that of a functional shoe. The stability, hardness, ability to mould to the body, with the elasticity and comfort to enjoy the experience. What I love about the true nature of ‘the sofa’ is that its purpose outweighs its aesthetic. Its internal composition is just as important as the outside.
I work as sustainably as possible with all aspects of my work and wish for my customers to have a continued relationship with their shoes in the same way that I have devoted to making them. It’s important to love the flaws that a handcrafted item will naturally possess and view these as celebrations of personal touch, in much the same way that we fall in love with the marks that display the fond memories experienced through the use of a sofa and its reflections of life at home.
But first thing’s first – how to turn this cream leather red…
Tabitha
Today I took my mould outside to create a new stearine shoe and to enjoy some fresh air. We found a really lovely place where we stayed some hours working outside. I had to destroy the mould unfortunately.
But I am working on getting a silicone mould made. It’s not so easy to get the right material these days because most shops are closed.
I have ordered materials and hopefully they will arrive next week.
Elisabeth Thorsen
Making deep, meaningful yet personal connections to our surroundings and the ability to be able to emotionally integrate yourself and your family within unfamiliar surroundings is not always an accomplish-able feat.
My partner for the Shoe Have Names project, Kimberley, is a woman at the centre of her family. She embodies courage and strength whilst moving from property-to-property with limited space, accepting constant change, battling the unwanted upheaval of her family and their belongings, whilst constantly striving to provide comfort and protection for those who rely upon her.
Longing for some semblance of security can feel like a relentless struggle – trying to find minute ties that connect us to our home, wherever that may be. When that connection is finally made, Kimberley talks about an excitedness for finally being able to decorate their own space, which is something many of us can relate to.
The clothes you wear obtain your smell and your touch, your shoes embed your very being and they experience the journeys you take. This issue may sound cosmetic, but the project begs me to question whether we can ever truly call an environment our home if it does not embody our identities. Through not just helping Kimberley’s family find a home, but through rebuilding their confidence and feeling of belonging, the significance of the work carried out by Shelter cannot be praised enough. Shelter helped Kimberley’s family to find a place that they could make their own - a positive conclusion leading to the beginning of a new colourful life. Home, as a concept, is something which requires bonds and connections that tie together trust, individuality, security and permanence: the core idea of which will be reflected in my design and process.
Tabitha Ringwood
We had to share this as soon as we received it. This is the first test of Elisabeth’s concept. You can read more about her thinking and the use of donated candles on her previous Shoes Have Names blog post.
I bought a pair of shoes that my feet noticed in the shop window as I was passing by. Unfortunately they didn't make them in my favourite colour. Purple! My eyes didn't fall in love that day but the sole's of my feet did.
The material was extraordinary, almost like a thick stretchy latex that was firm, squidgy and flexible all at the same time. They supported my weight, ankles, joints and the painful issues that sometimes knocks on the windows of my knees.
My toes kept turning somersaults and bursting into song every time I put them on. As soon as they touched my feet my toe's started singing, 'These shoes are made for walking,' that was so wild. I wore my shoes everywhere even in the winter for as long as I could.
The weather wasn't always appropriate, just let me re-phrase that! These shoes that I was wearing wasn't always appropriate for the weather. I know, this wasn't a dream and it sounds hilarious. This was a daily occurrence and it kept repeating in my head just like the film Groundhog Day!
The unique material lasted for such a long-time. One day the elasticity began to give way and my feet kept sliding to the left and right. This felt like the motions of a rocking horse, slamming my ankle joints towards the ground every third or fourth step.
My brain started to ask me quick fire questions... What is taking you so long? Why don't you just buy another pair of shoes already? There not even your favourite colour? Do I have to sprain my ankles first? Love can be blind I know, but this just takes the biscuit!
I wonder if any of you can remember the good old winter day's when it use to snow like cotton buds looking like the clouds in the sky. I use to make snow men with button eyes and carrot noses. Throw snowballs behind the trees without leaves pretending to hide.
Peek-A-Boo, who am I kidding, of course they could see me. Some days the snow would be so intense, it felt like my toes were' Knock, knock, knocking on heavens door' and that is an understatement to say the least.
Over the course of ten plus years, I took them to the shop where I bought them. It had its own repair department that offered a reduced price on all shoes bought in their stores. One day he said 'There is nothing more that we can do for your shoes.' I was left with the precious memories and a pair of retired shoes. Believe it or not my ankles started tap dancing and singing to me ' Oh happy day! Oh happy day, I'm so glad, those shoes have gone away!' Finally I'll get a new home today.
Written By: Miss Missie Biellie-Dee Luewis - Shoes Have Names collaborator
Miss Purple Heart 💜
Copyright: Miss Missie Biellie-Dee Luewis
Hello, Elisabeth from Norway here. This is my second update.
After I watched a video of Missie’s story I knew I needed to involve her in this project and learn more about her. We have been talking on Skype and email and i feel a connection with her. I really love her spirit and love and respect her oevre.
I found it important to get people to think of how it would be to be in a homeless person’s shoes, how they look at homeless people and how they would manage being homeless themselves?! So how to get people in the mood and think about how it is to not be able to have shoes in right size, without holes or shoes at all?
I have always liked the idea about lighting a candle for someone you love or something good. Then I had the idea of making shoe lights and i felt it would work well with "Sacred performance", where people light a shoe and reflect about homelessness.
Missie has told me that she writes poems and she is even creating her own children’s book these days, so I would love it if she could read or perform on the exhibition opening. You can read Missie’s blog about her favourite shoes.
We have a little something in mind we will come back to, so you will just have to wait and see. I also love that i received a lot of candles while talking about the project on the radio. So this is made with love out of material given with love.
Now i am looking forward to talking with Missie to discuss the rest of the project and hear what she has written. We need to figure out some things about the shoes but i think the project is taking shape slowly but in the right direction.
Elisabeth Thorsen
Shoes Have Names collaborator
On Saturday a number of the Shoes Have Names team and collaborators enjoyed a studio visit to see the progress of Caroline Groves’ boot for the Shoes Have Names project. We also had a fantastic behind the scenes tour, which helped us understand more about her passions for heritage crafts, such as cross stitch and embroidery, and look at some of the beautiful tools of her craft.
Thank you to Caroline for welcoming Jo, Dan, Jackie and me!
Richard
The thing that came to my mind when first reading my partner Shandor’s story, who was helped by Shelter, was the saying “Home is where the heart is” – anybody that knows my work will know I will always try and get a heart in there somewhere.
It also says a home is more than just four walls and a roof - it gives a sense of permanence, safety and security where the things and people you hold dear are.
This project has brought back memories of being brought up around the family shoe business, experiencing the highs and the lows and finishing with my parents losing the family home and the shame and despair felt but also the feeling that you have to fight on. Speaking to Shandor we discussed how experiencing homelessness changes your perspective and different things become important.
While homeless he told me how his favourite waterproof shoes gave him security in a time of uncertainty. With this in mind I will do a lace up clog to hold securely on the foot. My starting point was to scribble words and images which stood out to me in Shandor’s story, from the hole which caused his injury and started his journey, to the little things like hanging pictures with hooks on the wall – a sign of permanence: home. So here’s a little peak in my sketch book so far.
Jackie
Hello, Elisabeth from Norway here.
I have started the process with the Shoes Have Names project and shared this video of my early idea process.
I have moved away from that idea but the path of getting to the result is a part of the making.
Now it's like. .. what is a home to me? Things, safety, music, people? Hmmm I guess a safe zone. A place to feel free to do, believe, eat and say what I want and the freedom to rest in a safe zone.
My first idea was to make a house as a shoe, a small one like a tent, but I moved away from that. My next idea was to make shoes with secret rooms and a possibility to lock them on while sleeping like handcuffs, but it did not seem good and reminded me too little of Missie.
Then I wanted to make a shoe with a door and doorbell welcoming the foot into the shoe, but it felt too strange. Now I am working on something new and hope it gets good. I will post photos and videos of the process.
Elisabeth Thorsen
Shoes Have Names collaborator
While re-reading my notes about the first meeting I remembered a story Chantelle shared with everyone at our Shoes Have Names Community meet.
Chantelle was speaking about her struggle to simply get to the first meet and greet. Of course living far from central London is already a hassle and then she got to the train station and there were train issues and everything seemed to be pointing her to turn back.
She was not embarrassed or ashamed to say that she started crying: there is barely a day that goes by when she doesn’t get emotional and close to tears, she told me. About to turn back, something came upon her like a mysterious force.
She doesn’t want to go home and feel sorry for herself, instead she gets on the train and there she is in the flesh at the meeting telling everyone about this experience. Chantelle’s been through things that no one should ever have to go through. When I asked her what kept her going through the toughest times she said, the thought of independence keeps her going through anything.
She exemplifies this incredible force to fight for herself and her children with every hardship that is thrown at her. The story she shared of the struggle to get to the first meeting shows her strong will and independence. This force and will power is something truly special and something I would like to show in my designs that represents: who Chantelle is, what she’s been through, and how she keeps going.
To show this I am going to use physical forces as a metaphor to visually represent the mental strength Chantelle shows every day of her life.
Physical Forces:
Applied Force
Spring Force
Drag Force
Frictional Force
Gravitational Force
Magnetic Force
Electronic Force
Many thanks
Dan Charkow
Shoes Have Names collaborator
Meeting the team at Shelter, what stood out for me is their passion and dedication to their work. While the person I am paired with wishes to remain anonymous, my email communication with her revealed her high regard for her case worker at Shelter, who was pivotal in achieving a positive outcome for her.
The value of the work done here to advocate for those without a home cannot be overstated - not just providing the physical structure of four walls, but the rebuilding of broken souls.
The person I am paired with is, like many of us, a woman at the centre of her family, for whom she is responsible, and who depend on her. Her only wish is to be happy and to have the domestic life she craves - collecting what is most important to her under one roof - her personal items, her family, her dog.
My work has always been based on traditional craft techniques utilising natural materials and my thoughts for this project turned to narrative embroidery. Most traditional samplers feature domestic scenes, with the house and home at the centre. This is my inspiration.
Caroline Groves
Shoes Have Names Collaborator
At first I tried to define what home is, and it is a lot of things, a lot of important things: safety, sanctuary, family, privacy, freedom, belonging, warmth, comfort, and more The more I thought about it the more I realised there is no specific shape and form to it, as it is such a personal definition, both the actual home as well as it's meaning. This is why I decided to use a "home symbol" to relate to this project, and use it in a negative form, the home symbol silhouette is created by the void between the heel and platform. The home is seen but it is not there. It is seen by its emptiness. Another hint of a home symbol is in the shape of the toe area. Another element are the XX created by the straps, making the image more "restricted". These days housing is becoming more and more difficult to have, something that is such a basic need in our existence is turning into an achievable mission. A home to live in is not supposed to be only a luxury.
In addition to all that mentioned above, a home is also a reflection of the person/s living in it. An empty place cannot be a home... when places and people meet both are alive and creating the unique surrounding.
Kobi Levi
Shoes Have Names Collaborator
Today was the first time I was able to meet Chantelle and the whole team driving the Shoes Have Names project. It was definitely a humbling experience hearing everyone’s stories and finally making a face to face connection.
Reading Chantelle’s story one thing I noticed is how she kept comparing Shelter’s work with comfort and warmth, contrasted with how she described the Council as making her feel like “a number or an animal.”
Upon meeting her today, I realize that she too is a beacon of warmth. She has such a strong and friendly heart which really evident today. She was an open book willing to share even the toughest experiences. What I didn’t realise is that Chantelle is actually still fighting homeless; it is a constant and exhausting battle.
When I asked what she wanted represented in the Chantelle Shoe, she immediately said she wanted something strong and resilient. In contrast to this, she also wanted to represent her own femininity and show how she had to change and become an even stronger woman and mother as a result of homelessness.
My first design thoughts are immediately drawn to using contrasting materials such as cold steel and vulnerable fur. It would be nice to use recycled metal scraps and maybe something that is more sustainable than fur.
Daniel Charkow
